Forest bathing at RSPB Gwenffrwd-Dinas

Gwenffrwd-Dinas is an RSPB reserve in the hills north of Llandovery, close to Llyn Brianne. Ancient upland oak woods and wet alder woodland cling to steep valleys where fast rivers run into the Tywi, with grassland and moor above. The woods stay damp all year, so the trees are thick with rare lichens and mosses, including witches' beard. In summer pied flycatchers, wood warblers and redstarts nest here.

Start from the car park beside St Paulinus Church. A boardwalk gives easy access into the alder woodland, with the oak woods and the river beyond; it is the simplest place to slow down and listen. The full circuit is about two miles, and roughly half of it is rough, rocky and slippery when wet, with steep drops beside the river, so wear sturdy footwear. A steep side path climbs to the cave said to have hidden Twm Siôn Cati. Bluebells cover the slopes in May.